Salvation in god’s city, one spoon at a time

Salvation in god’s city, one spoon at a time

Food, like faith, is a saviour in Benaras. It is the third time in less than three days that we have alighted at Girja Ghar Chowk, opposite… Read More »
Ashes to ashes, dust to dust

Ashes to ashes, dust to dust

The venerable Kashi, on the bank of the Ganges, is where I thought I would find salvation. Or so, I hoped. The boat is red. Dusty, brick… Read More »
The only map you need if you’re visiting the Kochi-Muziris Biennale

The only map you need if you’re visiting the Kochi-Muziris Biennale

You’re going to the Biennale. Breathe.   You need to discover it, not catalogue it. It’s easy to run around like a headless chicken, instagramming and hashtagging,… Read More »
Dispatch from Kochi

Dispatch from Kochi

There are no doors. Or, none that are closed. It is evening when we make our way to Fort Kochi, the oldest European settlement in India, as… Read More »
Postcard from Kochi

Postcard from Kochi

I have spent three days wandering through the broad tree-lined roads of Fort Kochi, full of store fronts and home stays and boutique hotels that seem plucked… Read More »